Good Designers Must Have The Following 9 Elements.
You rarely see Sara Maino Vogue fashion editor in front of the fashion show in Italy.
"The designers I am looking for usually do not have enough funds to hold a press conference, so I have to go to them."
What she says is the young designer market in the blowout season: "I really like this process."
Sara Maino is hard to find the momentum of the first card guests. A fluffy curly hair and thick border glasses are even her signs.
If you look at it carefully, you can still find a trace of the charm of her mother Carla Sozzani in the eyebrows. The latter set up a famous buyer shop in Italy 10 Corso Como, and also the sister of Franca Sozzani Sozzani, editor in chief of Italy Vogue.
Sara Maino entered Vogue as an intern more than 20 years ago.
Over the past two years, her responsibilities have gradually shifted to digging new people, including today's Loewe creative director Jonathan Anderson, Italy designer Stella Jean, and popular shoe designer Sophia Webster.
Sara Maino's work is no different from that of "scout", but she has always been inconsistent with the word "discovery". In an interview with the New York Times, she said, "to be more precise, my task is to set a spotlight for them at a critical moment."
In order to find the fashionable talents, Sara Maino has expanded its search range from the traditional fashion capital to the emerging regions such as Russia, Asia and Africa.
Recently, she was invited to fly to Russia to attend the Moscow fashion week, and made some suggestions for young designers.
1, quality is certainly a precondition.
"It wasn't easy at first," Sara Maino said. "It's hard to guarantee high quality with limited funds."
However, when the whole world
Fashion market
With more and more emerging brands emerging, quality becomes the first threshold.
7, 8 years ago, the British new designers were once notorious.
The founder of Imran Amed, BoF, heard many buyers complain that these newcomers were suffering from severe procrastination, and the quality of the products delivered was far from the samples.
In some extreme cases, the clothing received by retailers has obvious smoke and stains, which can not be sold at all.
This is also one of the reasons that the retailer takes the delayed payment or entrust the sale.
2, identification
"Recognition can come from tradition or inspiration -- sometimes it's just an unforgettable feature."
Sara Maino explains: "you can use your own cultural traditions and unique home textiles in your clothes and modernize them."
Chinese designers are doing well in this respect, and designers like Laurence Xu, Guo Pei and other advanced T designers are all playing the "Chinese style" brand.
A younger group of graduates in Britain prefer to make articles on fabrics, such as Chen Xu, who has won the LVMH award this year. His own research and development of fabric is one of the key reasons for many buyer's orders.
3, do not compare with others.
"How many times have you signed the contract this season," and "do you order a large quantity"? "Has XXX ordered your order this year"?
All kinds of comparisons in the student era continue naturally to the workplace.
Sara Maino has some views on chicken soup, but there is no lack of reason: "comparing with others is meaningless. You have your own way, tell your story well, and bring out new works."
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4. Outsiders' opinions and views.
As newcomer designers, they are sometimes very vague about their positioning, market operation, customer needs and so on.
At this time, it is particularly important for the industry's senior people to make suggestions and suggestions.
Sara Maino gives us two examples. First, it is proposed that Brazil designer Paula Cademartori do not blindly use black and white two colors.
In the 2014 year of the year, the brand's color bag was red overnight.
The advice of Martina Grasselli, a drama jewellery designer, is to design jewelry into shoes.
Just like prophecy, her shoe series Coliac can be turned into a hot selling product shortly afterwards.
But at the same time, young designers can not forget their original intention -- why design, which will be a brand different from others.
5, the courage to draw inspiration from the past.
Fashion is always in reincarnation, so there is no need to be ashamed of borrowing.
Sara Maino's view is: "the industry's memory is very short, if you can turn the past into modern, that's understandable."
She takes Vetements as an example - it's interesting to make a sense of future in the design of Martin Margiela 20 years ago.
Therefore, it is important to modernize the year so as to adapt to the modern commercial atmosphere.
6, the wrong time is likely to be destroyed.
brand
In the eyes of Sara Maino, Scout is the group of people who "illuminate" designers at critical moments.
Conversely, if the time is wrong, it is likely to destroy the brand, for example, young designers have not accumulated enough experience, or the business operation system is not enough.
"One of our duties is to give them the right exposure at the right time."
Sara Maino said.
Coincidentally, Anna Wintour, editor in chief of Vogue magazine, once suggested to Chen Xuzhi to develop slowly and not to be anxious for success.
Sara Maino also mentions those new designers who have gained a lot of fame. Although they have accumulated a certain degree of concern in the industry, they still need support.
7, do not be afraid of "small".
Small groups and small outputs are not disgraceful. On the contrary, they enjoy higher degrees of freedom and control over the future direction of the company.
"Let designers do 6 series a year, in fact, too many."
Sara Maino said today's struggling "prolific" designers.
Not long ago, she met many new designers in Saudi Arabia, even though they only introduced a series in summer, which is most appropriate based on the local tropical desert climate.
"Nowadays few young people want to become the next Burberry, Dolce &Gabbana, or work for a big consortium.
Since the birth of social media, vocalization is no longer difficult.
Sara Maino found that young designers agree with each other in any country.
8, social marketing, do smart to do.
Today, the 42 year old Sara Maino will also seek tomorrow's star through Instagram.
With the help of social platforms such as Facebook and Instagram, many young designers publish their latest online publications online.
"On social platforms, you need not only show yourself, but more importantly, communicate with others."
She added: "if you can't communicate effectively, even if the brand information is clearer, it will be useless."
Reference books include the United States.
Fashion design
The designer of the INSTAGRAM published by CFDA last year (#FASHION) is talking about pictures and words uploaded by designers on their Instagram accounts.
9, go out and look at the fashion abroad.
When exploring the topic of "inspiration", many designers will mention trips, such as Jonathan Anderson.
Sara Maino, however, points out another important meaning of travel: "the outside world can help you understand the true face of the global fashion market."
Can designers of these 9 points get ahead? No one can give an answer.
As scout Sara Maino said, "I never know who the next designer is waiting for me to dig. This is the unpredictable fashion industry."
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